Camino de Santiago

Day seventeen on the Camino Frances: Atapuerca to Burgos

Our day began with another long climb, this time in the mist which lifted after about an hour of walking. From the tops the views are, apparently, awe-inspiring. It was a different story today but no less awesome.

In the mist at Cruz de Matagrande


The sun began to burn-off the mist as we completed our descent.

The sun breaks through near Villaval


The fields of sunflowers, which can only be described as past their best, in fact you’d be forgiven for thinking them dead, turned their heads to the sun, just as they always have.

After coffee and baguette at a cafe very popular with pilgrims in the small village of Cardenuela RioPico it was a long slog to Burgos. We took the recommended option in the guide book, the route which took us off the road, behind the airport,

Industry to the left of us and Burgos airport to the right


and then along the banks of the Rio Arlanzon into Burgos.

It was scorching by then and near midday we collapsed amongst some long grass beneath a tree. I was too hot and too tired to voice a passing concern about snakes. Later, after some water, well a lot of water, and yet another examination of the blister situation we started walking again.

The path was a narrow dirt track amongst trees and longish grass, relatively easy on the feet despite the heat. Burgos and our hotel with an entire room ย and a bathroom to ourselves lay ahead. I was dreaming of real towels, king sized towels, wrap your whole self in them towels, when at my feet there was a crackling, rattling, moving quickly sound.

I screamed before I saw it but saw it I did, and then screamed some more! It was long, it was a blotchy brown colour, it was fast moving. It may very well have been scared of me, but I wasn’t sticking around to find out!

We’ve made it to the hotel – the towels are perfectly gigantic.

An aside: on the matter of the blisters, the third, and last of the three, may actually be improving. Helped along by something called hikers’ wool. Another very kind pilgrim, this time from Kansas, gifted me some. She’d ordered it from New Zealand, how’s that for irony? ย I’ve never seen the stuff before. It seems to have done the trick.

17 replies »

  1. This misty view is breathtaking, Jill. But a snake wasn’t at all fun, isn’t it? Trust you enjoyed the king size towels and the day of rest and that the blisters improved. Looking forward to reading the next days, as I’m still running behind.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Thoroughly enjoy reading about your adventures along the Camino. Have just binge-read through all 17 days! Enjoy the well deserved rest day and happy tramping!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Glad your blisters are healing, and that you and the snake were both unharmed. It really does seem that you have to travel abroad to get to know your own backyard; so funny to discover NZ hiker’s wool via Kansas.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Great day I would say. I LOVED BURGOS – had the best chocolate con-churros there. Before I left NZ, I did alot of gogling re blister prevention and Hikers Wool; came up, so I did pack a packet. Luckily never had to use it. ENJOY the blissdom hotel

    Liked by 1 person

Nau mai, Haere mai. Come on in and join the korero (conversation)

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s