Camino de Santiago

Day twelve on the Camino Santiago: Navarrete to Azofra

We cracked the 200km mark today, a couple of kilometres past this way marker. Only another 500 or so to Santiago – then more after that to Finisterre on the Atlantic Coast.

Way marker just after the town of Najera


We named this part of the road, particularly the gully afterwards “Death Valley” on account of the heat, the flies, the stench of cow dung (we saw plenty of dung but no livestock) and the thirty or more buzzard type birds that continuously circled above us as we trudged on.

We’re in the heart of the La Rioja region now and the grape harvest is in full swing.

Grapes of La Rioja


The grapes are small and sweet with an intense flavour. Interestingly, there are no scarecrows, no blasts from bird scarers and the fruit appear untouched.  I guess buzzards don’t eat fruit.

Camino angels are a feature of The Way. Often they have cold drinks, fresh fruit, sometimes hot coffee, all for a donation. Today we met this musician playing traditional hymns. His music made for a relaxing interlude while we stripped off our rain gear.

A musical Camino Angel


He told us about an ancient pilgrims’ hospital, dedicated to San Anton, only a couple of hundred metres along the route. (Hospital in this context means albergue or Refugio.) It was another reminder that Christian pilgrims have been walking this route since the 9th Century. And I’ve read before that Celtic peoples walked across the north of Spain to Finisterre, searching for the End of the world

Today, by time we arrived in Azofra the small niggles in my feet had turned to blisters.

Boots of the Camino

They’re not too bad. I hope it stays that way. Tomorrow we have another 20 plus kilometres. I’ll be cracking out the first-aide kit before we start.

Monday Walk With Jo

9 replies »

  1. You’ve done well not to have had blisters until now — well done ! Seeing you are going on to Finisterre, be sure to have seafood paella there — one of the yummiest we experienced anywhere. It’s so good to revisit the Camino with your superb photos and travelogue — keep it up.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. that vineyard snap is SO great Jill………. inciting to walk past and just grab a bunch (or 3 :-)….Yes, pop those small blisters. Hopefully you have hikers wool or compeed with you

    Liked by 1 person

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