Camino de Santiago

Day eight on Camino de Santiago – Lorca to Azqueta

We were up and on our way this morning, before sunrise and before most other walkers. We needed our torches to pick out the path and find the way markers for the first 45 minutes or so. It made for peaceful walking which we both appreciated. And we didn’t need to breakout the turbo chargers to power on past anyone today – a very good thing. 

Early morning sun on the ruins of San Miguel monastery near Lorca

Over the last couple of days we’ve found the trail particularly noisy and crowded. The hospitaleros we’ve encountered have often seemed pressured and tired as they’ve dealt with wave after wave of pilgrims – who wouldn’t be? The walkers haven’t always been cheerful, either, us included.  Although we did expect the Camino to be busy  the number of people has taken us by surprise. Mostly we’ve managed quite well but our sense is that the infra-structure is close to overwhelmed at the moment. Tempers do get frayed, especially when people are hot and tired and have to wait in queues, or worse can’t find a bed. 

We’ve been considering our options; keep going, or stop for a couple of weeks and wait out the crowds. Apparently the numbers drop away towards the end of September. 

Way markers in the town of Estella


But this morning’s walk in the sunrise was so peaceful, so beautiful, and then the welcome here in Azqueta so warm and relaxed we’ve decided to stick to our plan, and carry on. 

Mont Jardin from the approach to Azqueta

La Perla Negra is a small privately operated albergue with a relaxed atmosphere. I’d been hoping they might have space for us and luckily they did. Actually, apart from the albergue, a closed church, a closed bar and a few houses there isn’t a lot here – not even through traffic. And now that the rush of pilgrims has finished for the day it’s extraordinarily peaceful. 

The main street

Tomorrow we head for Torres del Rio. The friendly gentleman on the telephone accepted our reservation, too, so things are on the up and up. 

9 replies »

  1. I know quite a few people who’ve walked this so it’s inevitable that it’s so busy. Climate-wise, nobody wants to do it in the Winter. You seem to be managing nicely. Long may it continue 🙂 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Keep to your plan. Your days will always be mixed bags, continue to be in every moment, challenges and all. I walked the total Camino 1.5 years ago from St JPDP to Santiago and had days where I had to draw on all my mental tufness……when you arrive in Santiago, the sense of satisfaction and achievement is overwhelming. My memoirs are so deeply etched now. I LOVE hearing of others walking the whole journey, it makes me relive with such vividness…so THANKS for sharing. Am really enjoying your daily blog (which I know takes rime and effort) ENJOY 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  3. I suppose crowds are to be expected, this must be one of the most famous long distance trails in the world. We have a couple of Saints’ ways here in Cornwall, you’ll probably only see a few cows en route 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

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