Camino de Santiago

Day eleven on the Camino de Santiago: Viana to Navarrete.

Yesterday’s gentle slide to one knee by John was repeated by me this morning, with more of a crash and a lot less grace. Fortunately, my sprawl in the gutter outside our albergue in Viana only left me with a few grazes and bruises. No real harm done. It was a salutary reminder not to rush, and to watch where I put my feet. 

An hour later, with four or five kilometres under our belt, we watched the sun rise while phoning home. After several weeks on the road and ten days on the Camino it was a pleasure to hear the sound of loved and happy voices.

Sunrise on the Camino – looking back to Viana

Much of today’s 24 kilometres was through the city of Logrono – they had a huge fiesta, a wine festival last night, in honour of their Rioja wine. I’m sampling it as I tap into my phone – nice, very nice. This morning the pavements of Logrono were slick with water from the street cleaners’ hoses; those that hadn’t yet been cleaned stank of old wine and other less pleasant odours. We had to be careful of broken glass. 

I suppose no place in the world ever looks or smells good the day after a party.  Nevertheless, we had a yummy tortilla and coffee in the central plaza, our usual mid-morning snack.

Our second breakfast of the day


A local photographer showed me the best spot to shoot the church, and then helped us find our way back to the Camino. 

Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda (14thC)

After an hour or so of trudging through town we were pleased to get off the concrete pavement and back onto the gravel country paths – they’re much easier on our feet. 

We ate lunch, bread, blue cheese, and oranges, in the shade of some trees on the other side of town, where we saw our first squirrels. No photos of them – they were moving much too quickly for my weary body.

Lunch in Parque Granjera, on the outskirts of Logrona

It was only an hour and a half of walking to Navarrete, another hill top village. From the loads and loads of gold in the local church I’d hazard a guess this village was once the home of a successful conquistador.

Way marker in Navarrete

We’ve treated ourselves to double room with ensuite tonight. Bliss! 

And right now we’re enjoying a few tapas with wine and beer.

Tapas in Navarrete

Tomorrow, it’s another 22 kilometres to Azofra. Hopefully, there’ll be no more gliding to his knees for John and no sprawling in gutters for me.

12 replies »

  1. A private room with ensuite is occasionally essential for a pilgrim’s sanity. No longer backpackers, you are now (what we rebranded ourselves) – flashpackers !! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  2. All of your meals look fabulous. That tortilla for a snack, your picnic and the tapas and wine! All favorites of mine. I bet the pavement was hard on your legs, but it must have also been nice to walk through a city. You guys are really making headway. I think I’ll be much slower when I do it. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

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