I’ve come to the conclusion that you can tell a lot about a place from how it treats new arrivals; specifically at passport control. (It’s superficial, I know, but so far after visiting fifteen countries in the last fifteen years —not all of them blogged about—my theory holds true.)
Myanmar had been at war with itself for fifty years when I arrived in Yangon this time last year and I didn’t know what to expect. What sort of people can do that to each other for so long? Would they be fierce, argumentative, distrustful of foreigners?
The country was going to the polls, the first democratic election in twenty-five years. Some thought John and I were taking unnecessary risks visiting the country right then. I can’t pretend our timing was purposeful; it was coincidence but one we didn’t shy away from.
To my surprise at the airport there weren’t guns on display, or none that I saw. There were no aggressive officials. There was a small, efficiently processed queue and abounding kindness. Welcome to Myanmar, said the gentleman who stamped my passport and then kindly pointed me towards baggage claim.
Everyone: the cleaners in the bathroom facilities, customs officials, the woman who procured a taxi for us; they were all smiling, welcoming, and kind and gentle. What’s more, by the time we arrived at our hotel an hour later, the taxi driver had given us our first introduction to Myanmar political analysis from a local’s point of view. I was fascinated. I also felt welcome, and certain our decision to visit was the right one.
The world’s attention was on that election. There were concerns about whether it was actually democratic, about the extent of interference from the military, and others, in their attempt to control the outcome and to retain power. International observers, some from New Zealand, were present.
People we met shared with us their worries, their hopes, their dreams for their country. They told us stories of oppression, resistance, patience, and then after the election was over, of victory.
The citizenry so highly valued their right to vote that people queued for hours to exercise that right. The queues we saw were quiet, orderly, long. For days afterwards people proudly displayed their inked finger, a sign they’d voted and who they gave their support to. Suu Kyi’s NLD party had the sweet victory of a landslide. My post Election Day in Myanmar has more details of my impressions at the time.
In terms of progress towards democracy there was still a lot to be done but, nevertheless, it was a big step forward. It hasn’t been plain sailing since. It was never going to be. Myanmar’s political, social, and cultural challenges are complex and long standing.
The people of Myanmar were interested in us, too: in our lives; what we thought of their country and their way of life. Life is hard for the average person, ours is charmed by comparison, but their kindness shows—as does their interest in us. In almost every photograph of a crowd I took during that month someone is looking straight at me, never with suspicion, always with curiosity, usually with warmth and kindness.
This week, one year later, like so many all over the world, I’ll be watching the election in the United States. The contrast is stark.
I’m not filled with hope. I don’t see a big step forward, whatever the outcome. This time, from the nation that so many regard as the foremost world power, that considers itself the leader of the “free-world”, reports have emerged of overt interference—from other foreign leaders, from Wikileaks, from their own FBI.
This time, whatever the outcome, I am fearful for the USA, for democracy, for world order.
God Bless America. God protect the rest of us.
Categories: Myanmar (Burma), Off-shore Adventures, United States
Jill's Scene 
This was a really interesting piece, thanks for sharing it. I’m thinking a lot about the topic since Trump’s election in the US. Here’s my take on it from a UK perspective, post-Brexit in case you want to have a read:
https://sexualityandthecityblog.wordpress.com/2016/11/10/when-love-doesnt-trump-hate/
Sam
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Hi Sam, Thanks for visiting and I’m glad you enjoyed my thoughts On Elections. Of course, I too have been thinking about it a lot more since Tuesday — it’s a fascinating, if harrowing, time.
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Myanmar is one of our favorite countries. Last year we visited for a few weeks just after the election. Everywhere we went people were extremely friendly and the sights around Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake were fabulous.
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Hi Steve, John and I want to go back there, to explore some of the more remote parts of the country. I’m sure we will, too, just not in the next couple of years.
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Brilliant images Jill! My country (US) could learn something from these people. I can not wait to visit Myanmar!
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Hello Lisa, I think you woud love this place!
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OMG your pictures make me know I would. Just hope I am as skilled with a camera as you are when I get there 😀
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Some great photos and thoughts on two political systems. We so often travel and find it hard to see the true country.
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As outsiders, passing though, I dont think we get to see the true country,we only have our impressions
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Thanks for sharing more beautiful photos from that trip, Jill. Thanks for your kind thoughts for our nation. I don’t see good things coming, either way, but we’ve been through struggles before.
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Yes, Dan, you have and so has the rest of the world. It’s the day after here, and the sun came up and no doubt it will come up again tomorrow.
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Thanks. Maybe things will turn out well. It’s hard to really know what these people will do. You certainly can’t usually base it on what they say during the campaign.
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Lovely street photos Jill. I am glad that you had a positive experience, and found them warm and welcoming.
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Thanks Claudette, I did … although there was that one time … when we had a little difficulty! https://jillscene.com/2016/01/18/three-golden-travel-rules
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Yes, remember that post 🙂
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Wonderful street photography. I am despondent about the US election. But maybe we need ‘bad’ moments to remind us how important democracy is. So many people in the ‘developed’ world no longer appreciate the importance of voting.
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Maybe, you are right. But now that its done, it’s looking a little scary.
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Yep.
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In the second-last photograph, the middle nun has a yellow bag. It looks like she has adapted a plastic bag of Me-O cat food and turned it into something quite stylish…
I don’t mean to trivialise your post, but I find that fascinating.
Top set of photographs in a great post.
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No trivialisation —I happen to like the splash of yellow!
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Wonderful description of your welcome to Myanmar and their new beginnings. I’m afraid our election year has been more of a circus than an exercise in democracy. In a way, I’m a combination of an optimist and a cynic. The cynic in me thinks this election has just been more revealing than most of our dark side. It has always been there, just more hidden. My optimistic side believes that we have survived presidents equally opportunistic and misanthropic and will most likely survive whoever wins this time. Evil may have its day, but I don’t believe it wins in the long run.
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Well, Eileen, now that its down and the shock waves are reverberating around the world, I’ve been thiking a lot about democracy and this election in particular, which of couse I’ve watched from the sidelines. I wonder if this is the great of democracy —that from time to time we are compelled to take a long hard look at things.
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